Haddanugad

I am remembering that it took a while for me to understand Geeta's and Prashant's English. When they are talking I can understand, placing questionable words in the context of a sentence really helps. Last evening in Prashant's class I understood less than half of the names of the postures. I had to rely on what other students were doing around me.

And, it carries over even when speaking to people with accents I'm used to hearing. Yesterday, there were several of us having a coffee. We were sharing our plans for the afternoon. Randy (from Texas - but, I'm used to Texans) said he was studying the Sutras. I asked him what translations he was using. He said Haddanugad and "Light on the Yoga Sutras."

I told him I didn't know that translation so he told me all about it. He really seemed to like it alot. I wanted to take a look at it so asked, "How do you spell that? Is it H-a?"

Randy said, "H-o-w, how."

"Oh, How to Know God!"

Settling In

Pune has the look of prosperity. There are new buildings, new businesses, and new paint all over. The Chetak has become quite posh with some air-conditioned rooms and TV sets. The rooms at the Chetak have received a new coat of paint and the bare lightbulbs have been replaced with light fixtures. There is more traffic and the vehicles are less accommodating. I think it is easier to get hit by a scooter, bus or car now, especially if crossing the street with the belief that vehicles will give some sort of right of way.

The expansion of the Institute has given so much more space. There has been no crowding in the classes I have attended so far. There looks to be over 40 western students. The Tuesday evening class with Prashant (advanced) was nearly all westerners. Do only westerners study yoga in the summer months? It is no longer necessary for us to place wooden props out on the balcony before class (for space) and return them to the hall (protection from the weather) afterwards. The prop closet, which used to be a long closet with another attached, is now one big open space. Replacing props at the end of class is a bit easier. A big part of this ease, however, is that, so far, there has been organization on the part of the students.

Along with prosperity comes an increase in prices, for just about everything. Paula, another student who was here in Pune when I was in 2001, made it her mission to find an apartment. It was my luck that she found an apartment (2 actually) that required another resident. Enter Dale. So I am now staying with Paula and her husband, Jack, in an apartment across the street from the Institute. She says it is the apartment that Meera Mehta stayed in when she was studying at the Institute. We will stay in this apartment until July, when we will need to relocate to another apartment. The July apartment is in the new multi-floor building next door to the Institute. It is luxurious. We will be sharing this space, which has 3 bedrooms, with an Aussie, Lenny. The advantage is savings on rent as well as on food. It will make a difference in the economic picture of my stay.

I have held my own in classes thus far. Though things are much more difficult for me this time than before. It can be discouraging to work so hard at what had come easily for so many years. But, there it is. During practice sessions I have opted to repeat the sequence Geetaji sent to me for during my cancer treatment. I hope that investment gives me the energy I need to make it through class. So far, so good. However, I did become nauseous during practice yesterday and had to make a trip downstairs out of the hall so I could be courteous with any emesis. It never came to that. But, upon my return to the hall I scaled down my practice even further. I believe I was ill because of the heat and not enough water to drink. My solution is to drink more water and ask less of myself in the heat of the day. Like today, it’s 3 PM and I’m at the internet café typing this missive because the internet café is air conditioned.

Prashantiji seems to be on the schedule for more classes than during my 2001 visit. Geetaji did not teach the Wednesday morning lady’s class. An assistant, Devki (spelling?), taught. She is a good teacher so it was a fine morning. Things begin slow in the first of the two-month session which is definitely in my favor. Geetaji was the instructor for the Pranayama class and this, too, was a beginning pranayama class. It was very calming and good for me to not have the demands that a pranayama class might lead me to make on my poor irradiated lung. As I said, progressing slowly is what I need to do. (those who know me – what do you think? Possible?)

People at the Chetak and at the Institute remember me. Not so many westerners appear that we don’t each make an impression, good or bad. At the bottom of the information sheet hanging on the Chetak room doors (new) Mrs. Shirole, the owner, says, “We appreciate all our customers, some when they come and some when they go.” I don’t know which I am. They would not be so rude as to tell me.

A whirlwind of activity in half time

It's not even a case of hurry up to wait, but rather, move a bit, wait, move a bit, wait, move a bit, wait, and on and on. By traveling a westward route to Asia I had the impression I was already in Asia as soon as I hit the international airport in LA. It was obvious that our destinations were Asian ports. I, caucasian, was in the minority with the majority at the gate being Asian families. They made themselves comfortable in the way Asians do, westerners seldom (too stodgy). I felt at home. I was able to lie down on the floor as were many others, not just the young people traveling around the globe on their post university shoestring budget.

The army of flight attendants looked to be the same size, age and sex. They were crisply dressed and ultra professional looking. But, then, so was the airport in Hong Kong. Upscale shops with haughty looking clerks dressed better than I would for a fancy occasion. I took the train into Hong Kong, which is very organized and more western appearing than Asian. The layout is phenomenal, the city of skyscraper next to skyscraper nestled among steep hills. It appears to be reaching for the sky.

Finally, after about 32 hours, I arrive in Bombay at a reasonable hour (7:30 pm). I had planned to purchase a domestic airline ticket and hang out in that airport until flight time, but there was no one at the ticket counters. There was no posting of hours they would be available. A hotel booking agent talked me into staying in a "3 star hotel" (???) near a bus stand where I could take an airconditioned bus out of Bombay the next morning. The cost was ultimately 100 rupees each, hotel and bus ticket, more than the agent quoted. What's a couple of dollars among friends? It worked out quite well.

There is a scent associated with Bombay. When I came the last time I was not appreciative, I was not sure what to think. I was overwhelmed with the smells, the chaos, the clutter, the poverty, the noise. This trip, driving from the airport to the hotel, I was heady with the perfume of Bombay. It is the smell of a flower or fruit at its peak, so rich that you know any second it will be over-ripe.

The bus trip to Pune was over-airconditioned and there was an Indian movie playing on the TV screen at the front of the bus. There were no breakdowns and no traffic jams. The only problem I had was figuring out which stop I should take from the bus. My solution was to stay on until the end. I made it to Pune and was established in my hotel room before noon.

Perhaps because the number of westerners are so limited with each session at the Institute, we are remembered. I was recognized by hotel staff and people at the Institute. This makes the arrival seem like a homecoming. As a return visitor I looked for familiar sites and changes. The city seems prosperous. Hotel Chetak (the hotel where I am staying) has made improvements including TV sets in the rooms and airconditioners in some rooms. There is new tile in the lobby and recent paint applied to walls in the rooms. It is taking on the look more of a business and less of a family hobby. There is an information board at the reception desk which gives room rates and currency exchange rates (new) as well as information sheets in the rooms informing patrons of services offered by the hotel (new). The rickshaws on the corner look in better condition. There is a new hotel up the street. There are more women in western style clothing than I recall.

No matter the changes I see there is much that is the same. This country is so ancient that political changes have no more impact than trends in fashion. It gives me a sense of continuity and connection. My senses feel clear and sharp, diamondlike.

I have arrived

From XNA (Northwest Arkansas) to Dallas to LA to Hong Kong, a brief stop in Bangkok, to Bombay, an overnight, then an airconditioned tourist bus ride to Pune. All in all about 48 hours. It's the longest night I have ever experienced.

More later.

I have already left

Around town I'm already comparing sights to similar ones I recall from India. I have left the building.

There are exciting adventures on the horizon. I spent most of last year consulting with a naturopath, oriental medicine doctor, radiologist, oncologist, surgeon, psychologist, nurses, and many other helpers in my quest to overcome breast cancer. It was a year of years for me. About a month ago a friend forwarded an email to me from a friend of hers who was in India and knew of a healer he thought I would appreciate meeting while I was in India. Joe, the friend of a friend, had a friend (in India) who would take me to the healer if I desired. So, I began emailing the friend of a friend of a friend to make arrangements for a pilgrimage to see this holy man. The Indian gentleman sounds very helpful, one might worry too helpful, but sometimes it's just a matter of faith. Besides he's a friend of a friend of a friend.

Today, Joe, the friend of a friend, called me. He is in Fayetteville and wanted to assure me of his Indian friend's motives. It was a delightful conversation. He wanted to tell me of his adventures but was polite and spent time talking to me about what I might expect on my own journey. I asked if he would mind if I shared one of his stories with readers of my blog. He agreed. Joe, thank you very much:

did y'all see the lunar eclipse two nights past? i didn't- but i tried.

6 hours journey from bangalore is mount arunachal, the most holy site for hindus in south india. it would only be 2 hours journey with usa highways, but oh well, this is india. supposedly this is the source from where all life came from, where a volcano spewed out all the life forms millions of years ago. and its the source of shiva. whether you believe it or not, this is the belief of the people here.

thousands of hindus travel around this mountain each full moon. it is supposed to give great powers to those who walk around it, and great power to your mantra when you repeat it going round, or sitting in one of the many temples on the circular road. an eclipse of the full moon is supposedly more powerful than just a full moon. so i went with 4 of my mexican friends by taxi to this place. why watch the lunar eclipse on the roof when you can see it while walking around this auspicious place? 2 of the mexicans were seasoned indian travelers and 2 were not.

we got to tiruvannamalai, the city where the mountain is. there was no lodging anywhere. but we found a most excellent place, run by a westerner, who teaches yoga there. he let us stay in his cottages, because it was the off-season and the rooms were empty. only 100 rupees each, the best value yet in indian lodging. and the rooms were so clean! he also has a restaurant with great food. we decided to walk around the mountain about 10 pm, then finish about 2 pm, after the eclipse. just as we were getting ready, it started sprinkling. we waited in the restaurant for the rain to stop. it didn't, it got harder. so we went anyway, myself and the 2 seasoned travelers. the 2 newbies ran back to their rooms for the night. i didn't come here only to stay in a lodge.

the rain was cold, by indian standards. but it was sure to let up soon, the clouds open, and expose the moon at about 1 pm so we could watch the eclipse. maybe a huge ray of light would spew out of the mountain, shiva filling us all with light and love. we put on jackets and set off. the indians walk barefoot around, as they do inside their temples. they consider this route as a temple itself. so i went barefoot also. my friends did not, as almost all westerners do not.

the rain did not let up, it got harder. we got drenched, but we kept walking. we all left with wishes to shiva. your wishes are supposed to come true, if you wish them devotely to shiva, and they are for others, not yourself. the journey turned out to be 4.5 hours, in rain, hard rain, light rain, then no rain for the last hour. it was about 10 miles or so. did i say i went barefoot? why did i do that? i was looking hard for an umbrella and a shoe store halfway through the trip. not likely to find at 3 in the morning. but i found a sandal shop at 3:30, and yes i bought a pair. only 40 rupees, but i would have paid alot more if i had to. the bottoms of my feet were getting very sore by then. i don't know what i was thinking, walking 10 miles on indian roads barefoot.

believe it or not, it was a great journey around the mountain. alot of work went into going around. perhaps my wish, and those of my friends, will come true. the new travelers got a good nights sleep in a warm and dry bed.

the next day we ate lunch at an ashram. i arranged the day before for the meal. the man in charge of the meals got mad at the newbie mexican girls. we showed up late. one of them wore her shoes right to the dining hall. they both brought spoons. they didn't look happy about sitting on the floor and eating with their hands off of banana leaves, like everyone else. and they didn't eat all their food. you don't waste food in an ashram. i was going to eat the girls spare rice. but before i could finish mine, he saw them and barred us all from ever coming back again. so lunch was not so good. its hard traveling in india with new travelers. no matter where you are from, it takes a while to get accustomed to eating with your hands and temple etiquette.

last stop was an enlightened man 20 miles outside of town. he has remained in the same chair for 25 years, and has not eaten or drank anything for over 10 years. not even one sip of water. i have heard about breatharians, but never seen one. there are many in india. we wanted to see him and ask him some questions. we arrived at his place, just after he started his afternoon nap. he wouldn't likely awake for more than another hour. and they said he was sleeping in a bed. so much for the 25 year chair sitting thing. roxanna and i were the only ones with much interest here. we couldn't make everyone wait so long. too bad, because that was one of my main goals of this trip. but i guess it wasn't meant to be. maybe next time.

we could've stayed up and watched the eclipse from our roof-top. except we have this freak rain storm all over south india. we could've gone to bed at a normal hour, and woke up fresh and practiced yoga. but i am content with the choice i made. it was a happy trip for us all.

later,

joe

In only a week I travel half way around the world.

I leave in a week for India. It took me 15 years to make my first trip to study with the Iyengars, the end of September, 2001 I left the US on a sparsely populated plane. Travel by westerners was severely affected subsequent to 9/11. The people I met in India that year offered many condolences to our country. It was a sad and scary time.
My trip this year follows another sad and scary time for me. Since 2001 I have opened my own business, both my parents have died, my son has divorced and remarried, and I have received treatment for breast cancer. I can use some time away.
I am hoping to learn more about myself, more about disease management, re-acquaint myself with people and places of India, and of course, have some great tourist moments.