Wednesday October 28, 1998
 

To the reader of this tome:

This is an account (the log) of our trip aboard Endless Summer from Norfolk, Virginia to Marathon, Florida.  The trip took place from October 22, 1996 through January 4, 1997.  Endless Summer is a Hunter 31 sloop.  She draws about 4' 10 loaded.

We tried to be accurate and honest in recording the events of the trip.  We have not left out the mistakes we made, because we do not want to forget them and perhaps someone else can profit from them too.

We claim to be experts in nothing.

Enjoy!
 

Roger and Susie Mummah
60 Canterbury Court #1010
Orange Park, FL 32065-7201  USA

rmummah@juno.com and/or
rmummah@worldnet.att.net

 Lessons We Learned aboard Endless Summer While on our Oct 1996-Jan 1997 ICW Trip from Norfolk, VA to Marathon, FL By Roger and Susie Mummah(  Try to avoid doing anything stupid.  Know your vessel and know yourself. Be south of the Chesapeake Bay by October 1st to avoid cold weather. The installation of a 3 bladed ICW power propeller  was a good idea. Get latest books, publications, charts and latest updates if possible (notices to mariners, etc.) Buy all necessary stuff before leaving.  Conveniently located discount marine stores are almost non-existent along the ICW. Study routes and potential problem areas well in advance of approaching them. There are almost always shoals whenever two bodies of water cross.  Stay in the deepest part of the channel as you approach and/or cross these places. Try to accompany boats of similar speed and draft, and stay in contact with them.  Pick a working channel in advance, just in case channel 16 is unavailable due to distress/emergency situations. You may be the only one who knows the right way, so, don't blindly follow the crowd.  BUT, keep an eye on them (and the chart) just in case you are wrong! Markers and important land marks are often obscured by shore line background or long distances. Know the approximate bearing to the next marker, and use the GPS when practical. Have good binoculars. Local information is available from locals, other cruisers and towing services. Have maximum affordable of towing insurance (we keep Boat U.S. $850). Study typical river channel patterns but be ready for non-typical situations. Avoid transiting popular boating and recreation areas on weekends and holidays. Switch knot meter to statute miles to match ICW statute mileage. Buy and know how to use a GPS.  Know how to compute way points. Have a portable VHF. Try to avoid having schedules that are any where near realistic, or don't have schedules at all. Make the best distance toward your destination every day because you never know when you will get held up by weather and/or other problems. Try to plan for some leisure days at anchor or at a marina to relax, sight see, etc. Do not slow to time your arrival at a published bridge opening time.  Bridges open for commercial vessels and you may be able to go through with them.  Bridge tenders may open to let you through at unscheduled times.  Be within striking distance of the bridge unless there are reasons why this is a bad idea. Watch for strange eddy currents, cross currents and strong currents at bridges and land cuts. Know your sailing plan for the next day and pick as many anchorages and marinas as possible along the way.  The anchorage or marina you pick may be unacceptable and/or full. Carry as much fuel and water as practical.  We had 12 gallons of diesel fuel and 20 gallons of  drinking water jerry jugs on deck.  Someone else may need it even if you don't. Be aware that passing deep draft vessels (tug boats and power boats) make your depth gage go crazy, and they may pull sunken debris up from the bottom.  Stay well back of them. Be aware that tug boats with barges need, and will take all necessary sea room.  Usually they will announce on Channel 16 that they are in the area.  Look for them and look for safe loitering or passing areas.
Publications we Recommended
 for the ICW trip from Southern Virginia to the Florida Keys
Roger and Susie Mummah( aboard Endless Summer

Absolutely Essential:
BBA Chart Kit - Norfolk to Jacksonville (Region 6)
The Intracoastal Waterway Chartbook - Seven Seas Press
The Intracoastal Waterway, Norfolk to Miami, A Cockpit Cruising Handbook,
 Seven Seas Press
Waterway Guide, Mid-Atlantic Edition - Intertec Publishing
Intracoastal Waterway Facilities Guide - Paradox Publishing
BBA Chart Kit - Florida East Coast and the Keys (Region 7)
Waterway Guide, Southern Edition - Intertec Publishing
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida by Claiborne Young

Essential, if you can find it, get it!
Anchorages along the Intracoastal Waterway - Wilmington Power Squadron, Wilmington, Delaware

Contains the trip across the Okeechobee Waterway (Stuart, FL to Ft. Myers, FL):
BBA Chart Kit - Florida West Coast and the Keys (Region 8)
Cruising Guide to Eastern Florida by Claiborne Young (Duplication from above)
Waterway Guide, Southern Edition (Duplication from above)

Other Stuff:
Cruising Guide to the Florida Keys by Frank Papy
BBA Chart Kit - The Bahamas (Region 9) -just in case
Florida Cruising Directory - Waterways Etc. (305)462-8151
Cruising Guide to Western Florida by Claiborne Young
(Other US East Coast Cruising Guides by Claiborne Young)
Gunkholer's Guide to the Chesapeake Bay by Shellenberger
Guide to Cruising the Chesapeake Bay, Chesapeake Bay Communications, Inc.
(??I think there is a new Chesapeake Bay Cruising Guide by Tom Neale??)

For the Mind:
Your Money or Your Life by Joe Dominguez and Vicki Robin
Sensible Cruising: The Thoreau Approach by Don Casey and Lew Hackler
 
 

Move Aboard Endless Summer and Prepare to Leave on ICW Trip South
October 14, 1996 through October 21, 1996

October 14, 1996 - Monday:
Moved aboard Endless Summer.  After another full day of getting ready to leave on our great adventure, we moved out of  the townhouse and onto our sailboat.  I made the final shopping trip to the Virginia Beach West Marine store and Susie cleaned the townhouse.  We had dinner with Sonny and Cecile Shelton and then returned not to the townhouse, but to Endless Summer.

October 15, 1996 - Tuesday:
Left E.S. in the morning to return to the townhouse to continue getting it ready to rent.  The carpet cleaner and bug spray people did their jobs.  I ran errands and Susie cleaned the townhouse.  Returned to E.S., had dinner, played cards and went to bed at around 10 pm.

October 16, 1996 - Wednesday:
Went back to the townhouse for more work.  Joe Reisenger put our refurbished 3 bladed, 15 diameter, 10 pitch propeller (ICW Power Prop) on Endless Summer.

October 17, 1996 : Thursday:
More errands.  Went to Steak and Ale Restaurant for Susie's Birthday Dinner.

October 18, 1996 - Friday:
Back to the townhouse.  Packed and shipped seven boxes to Llewellyn's house in Deerfield Beach, FL.

October 19, 1996 - Saturday:
Party at Rob and Terri White's house.  Going away party for us and a baby shower for Jeannie and Vinny Xenakis.  Attending were Roger and Susie Mummah,  Jeannie and Ninny Xenakis, Skip and Karen Urps and Rob and Terri White.  Returned to Endless Summer after the party (about 10 pm).

October 20, 1996 - Sunday:
Went to townhouse.  Final Cleaning.  Called relatives to tell them were out of the townhouse, and no longer reachable by phone.  Joe Reisenger cleaned Endless Summer's bottom.

October 21, 1996 - Monday:
Intended departure day.  I made a final morning trip to West Marine in Hampton, VA for more equipment and returned by 10 am.  We would have to leave by 11 am to make it through the bridges before the rush hour restrictions went into effect.  We decided to delay our departure for one more day, so we wouldn't have to rush, and so we could get an earlier start.  We continued getting ready to leave by organizing and storing stuff on Endless Summer.
 

Underway on ICW Trip South
October 22, 1996 through October 31, 1996

Day 1 Underway - October 22, 1996 -Tuesday
Willoughby Harbor Marina, Norfolk, VA (MM -11.2) to Great Bridge, VA (MM 11.8)
Started diesel at 9:50 am, diesel meter reading 27.7
Underway at 10:10 am
Tied up at Great Bridge Locks at 3:15 pm., diesel meter at 33.2 hours
Dinner $20.00
We prepared our Honda Civic for our daughter to pick it up from the marina parking lot.  Susie paid our final marina bill and we left Willoughby Harbor Marina, Slip B40 at 10:10 am.  Barry Carter officiated by helping us with our bow lines and took our picture as we backed out of the slip.  Diana Hamilton took our picture as we passed the T head on A dock.  We headed across Willoughby Bay to exit via the southern channel.  We had some nervous moments when the depth sounder indicated depths around 7 feet.  When I went to full throttle, the previously purring diesel began to knock and make loud noises.  I had no idea what was causing it.  Thinking we may have picked up a crab trap I shifted to neutral and then to reverse.  I revved the diesel in reverse and then returned to neutral and then forward.  The problem was gone.  We made it to the southern channel and exited by the aircraft carrier docks without further incident.  The wind steadily picked up so were glad we left when we did.  We were one of only two boats tied up at Great Bridge at 2:30 pm. but by nightfall there were seven.  We had a visit from our old neighbors Gloria, Brandon, Sarah, and Jordan Harper.  Champ couldn't make it.  Later our son, his girlfriend Shannon and her son Preston joined us for fried chicken on the lawn next to Endless Summer.  I mentioned our diesel anomaly to one of the other boaters and he said it sounded like a sticking or sluggish diesel fuel injector.  He recommended that we try adding some diesel fuel additive that restores more lubrication properties to the fuel.  We went to sleep at about 9 pm.  No heat, no AC electricity, no telephone!  Freedom!

Day 2 Underway - October 23, 1996 - Wednesday
Great Bridge, VA (MM 28.2) to Pungo, VA anchorage at (MM 28.8)
Started diesel at 9:47 am, diesel meter at 33.2 hours
Underway at 10:00 am.
At anchor in Pungo anchorage at 1:20 pm., diesel meter at 36.8 hours
Spent no money
Awoke at about 7:45 am.  Shared stories and plans with others tied up at the Great Bridge Locks.  We decided to go only as far as an anchorage in Pungo this day.  Since it was only a 3-4 hour run we saw no reason to get away early.  We should have left Great Bridge earlier and made it all the way to Coinjock. Very windy, 20-25 out of the south and gusting.  This anchorage is at MM 28.8 just south of the Pungo Ferry Road.  We didn't want to spend five more hours motoring directly into the wind, so we stopped here.  We had a total southern exposure, so we bounced a little as the wind howled all night.   The anchorage is also exposed to wakes from the typical inconsiderate power boats, since it is just west of the channel.  If it was less windy, this would be a fine anchorage, but we recommend leaving Great Bridge earlier and making it to Coinjock, or near there, or anchoring in the next anchorage in Blackwater Creek (which we had not previously considered because it appeared to be in a swampy creek).
 

Day 3 Underway - October 24, 1996 - Thursday
Pungo, VA anchorage (MM 28.2) to Midway Marina, Coinjock, NC (MM 49.4)
Started diesel at 7:45 am, diesel meter at 36.8 hours
Tied up at Midway Marina at 11:17 am., diesel meter at 40.3 hours
Underway at 7:50 am. Midway Marina $25.00, Ice $2.00, Laundry $8.00
Added 6 gal. of diesel fuel at the dock, from the diesel fuel can.
Left the Pungo anchorage without incident at 7:50 am.  Calm winds.  About 50 degrees with clear skies.  We noticed a large sailboat anchored in a very protected creek at MM 30.1, in Blackwater Creek.  This spot is recommended in the Waterway Guide, and it would have been a much better choice for us.  The waterway widens into the North River.  I spent the entire day concentrating on the depth gage and the channel markers.  When we entered the Currituck Sound the wind picked up from the east and made it very important to steer a little into the wind to stay off the shoals.  We had to learn to keep looking at the marker aft as well as the marker ahead to make sure the wind didn't push us out of the channel.  The wind caused a small chop on our starboard beam, but it wasn't bad at all.  Again there were the obnoxious power boats that do not reduce their wake when passing.  Most of them do, but just one inconsiderate person can cause lots of bouncing of sailboats, people and stuff.  I was tense and we had a lot of stuff to do, so even though it was only 11:17 am, we stopped at the Midway Marina in Coinjock, NC.  Midway is one of three marinas there, but it is the only one that has small basins that provide protection from wakes.  We got into a basin but we were across from the opening into the ICW and a mega yacht's wake bounced us violently.  We moved to a more protected position in the basin which helped a lot.  We spent the rest of the day on the never ending process of sorting, stowing and discarding stuff.  More remains to be done, but we are more organized and the waterline is a little more visible.  There were swarms of mosquitoes when the sun went down but the screens kept them out.  I bought some diesel lubricant additive at the marina store and put it in the fuel tank.  The diesel had a few vibrations when she came to higher RPMs, but I backed off and tried it again and she smoothed out.  The lubricant has not had time to do it's thing yet anyhow.  Endless Summer is making a good home for us.

Day 4  Underway - October 25, 1996 - Friday
Midway Marina, Coinjock, NC (MM 49.4) to Deep Point anchorage, Alligator River, NC (MM 102.2)
Started diesel at 7:28, diesel meter at 40.3
Underway at 7:30 am.
At anchorage in Alligator River at 4:10 pm., diesel meter at 49.1
Spent no money
Left Midway Marina at about 7:30 am.  No wind (of course we were in the canal).  It was in the lower 50's and there was a foggy mist in places.  We were advised by reading and by personal accounts that the Albemarle sound is unpleasant in winds that approach or exceed 10-15 knots, from most any direction.  Due to heavy prayer the winds were just about dead calm until we reached the southern end of the Alligator River.  After leaving Coinjock it's more canals wide places where the depth gage has to be monitored constantly.  It would be wise to study typical river channel patterns.  Some swing wide around points, but some are in the middle.  You can't simply steer from marker to marker.  You have to pay constant attention to the depth gage while trying to stay in the channel.  Not a big problem, but we had to be careful.  Crossing the Albemarle Sound was beautiful.  Flat water and wonderful scenery.  Crab traps were there, but easy to avoid.  We entered the north end of the sound at about 10 am and exited the south end at about noon.  The Alligator River Bridge opened for us at 1:10 pm.  Still there was no wind at all.  It was early afternoon and things were going so well we decided to extend our cruising day.  As we approached the south end of the Alligator River the wind picked up from the south east and made us glad we had not selected an exposed anchorage again.  We dropped anchor off Deep Point at MM 102.2.  It's just off the ICW channel, so it's susceptible to wakes, but it's very nice.  There are about 9 sailboats, one trawler and a small power boat also anchored here.  There were two raft-ups, one with two large sailboats (45'+) and a the other with three sailboats (38-42').  The raft of three are having a cocktail party with boat music.  We weren't invited and don't know how to barge in.  It's too much work to deploy the dinghy and we're tired anyhow.  We had drinks in the cockpit followed by a nice dinner of pancakes and ham.  The anchorage was asleep by 8 pm when we retired to the V berth, which is now cleared of stuff.  There were mosquitoes at this anchorage too.  Thank God for screens.
 

Day 5 Underway - October 26, 1996 - Saturday
Deep Point, Alligator River, NC (MM 102.2 to Belhaven, NC anchorage (MM 135.7)
Started diesel at 7:25, diesel meter at 49.1
Underway at 7:35 am
At Belhaven anchorage at 1:30 pm., diesel meter at 55.0
Dinner $23.00, Ice $3.00
Left anchorage at 7:35 am and headed for the channel.  After a short run we entered the Alligator River- Pungo River Canal.  It was as straight as an arrow for many miles.  We were in line with numerous other sailboats and power boats.  The canal exits at the south end into the Pungo River.  We anchored at 1:30 pm off the city of Belhaven NC.  We deployed the dinghy and together we set the outboard motor on the dinghy using the main halyard.  The process worked well.  Susie and I took off for Capt. Robb's marina to use a phone.  We said hello to some people on a big sailboat named Kismet, who we met again a few days later.  We also found a friend from Willoughby Harbor Marina.  Frenchy was tied up there waiting for a solar panel voltage regulator.  His batteries had been run down because of a defect in the regulator.  We had dinner together at a restaurant called the Helmsman.  It is only two blocks from the dinghy docks and the seafood is excellent.  We returned to Endless summer at 7:30 pm.  We pulled the outboard motor off the dinghy with the halyard for the first time and the process again worked well.  We got Endless Summer ready to leave in the morning.  We turned in at about 8:30 pm.

Day 6 Underway - October 27, 1996 - Sunday
Belhaven, NC anchorage (MM 135.7) to Cedar Creek, off Adams Creek, NC anchorage (MM 187.7)
Started diesel at 7:20 am, diesel meter at 55.0
Underway at 7:30 am.
Anchored at Cedar Creek (MM 187.7) at 2:55 pm., diesel meter 63.6
No money spent at Cedar Creek anchorage
Left the anchorage at what we thought was 7:30 am but due to daylight savings time it was actually 6:30 am.  We were behind some of the bigger boats.  At the Hobuken Bridge we were caught by one of the boats we had seen at the Belhaven Anchorage.  It was Kismet, a beautiful 41' Scepter sailboat, owned by cruisers Key and Ellen Calhoun from Cobbs Creek, VA.  I told them to go ahead of us at the bridge, since they would pass us any how.  As they passed they told us they intended to anchor in Cedar Creek, off Adams Creek, and to join them for cocktail hour if we anchored there too.  We said we would.  After leaving Belhaven we crossed the Pamlico River and then passed through a land cut.  We entered the Bay River which opens into the Neuse River.  We almost made a wrong turn as we entered the Neuse River at approximately MM 165, but we saw our mistake and got back on course.  The Neuse River is supposed to be as bad as the Albemarle Sound to cross.  It was calm for part of the way, but the wind built up and we had an uncomfortable port beam sea for about an hour.  We turned into Adams Creek and found Cedar Creek.  We almost ran aground by attempting to enter the anchorage at a range marker that we thought was a green channel marker.  Again we saw our mistake and recovered in time.  We saw Kismet and anchored near her at 2:55 pm.  Twice our Fortress anchor refused to grab, so for the first time we deployed the Delta.  It held fine.  We were tired and took a sort nap.  While I was installing the mud palms on the Fortress anchor Key Calhoun called over to us to come over any time.  I finished the anchor work and Susie and I went to Kismet.  We had good conversation and returned to Endless Summer at 6 pm.  Susie cooked spaghetti.  It was great!  Life is good!
 

Underway Day 7 - October 28, 1996 - Monday
Cedar Creek anchorage (MM 187.7) to Beaufort Docks Marina (MM 204.4), Beaufort, NC
Started diesel at 8:40 am, diesel meter at 63.6 hours
Underway at 8:58 am
At Beaufort Docks Marina, Beaufort, NC at 12:55 pm, diesel meter at 67.8 hours
Changed diesel oil at Beaufort, NC at 67.8 hours on the diesel meter
Beaufort Docks Marina-$37.00, Groceries-$35.00, Vodka-$34.00, Laundry-$4.50
Bought Diesel Fuel and added 6 gallons to the diesel tank.
Delayed getting underway from anchorage due to fog.  Worked on smelly holding tank.  I think it is a leaky or loose clamp on a holding tank tube.  I found leaking debris, cleaned it up, and tightened the suspect clamp.  Sprayed effected area with Clorox Cleanup.  Left the anchorage at about 9 am.  Faced an oncoming current and wind in the Adams Creek Canal, but maintained approximately 5 MPH.  The wind was fierce when we exited the canal and entered the northern approaches to Beaufort.  We took the ICW route instead of one of the alternate routes.  The ICW route takes you to Moorhead City and then you back track to Beaufort via a route to Beaufort Inlet.  It was rough due to the outgoing tide and the brisk wind.  The route actually takes you into the inlet before you take a hard left into Beaufort.  We made it OK, but experienced some ocean swells on the way in.  I read the chart wrong and went farther out into the ocean channel than necessary.  At 12:55pm we got a slip at The Beaufort Docks Marina because we didn't want to be on the hook in the crowded anchorage with the wind conditions.  The marina is no big deal, and we would not even recommend staying in Beaufort at all, unless the intent is to wait for a favorable weather window to go outside.  The marina is stretched out along the waterfront for about an eighth of a mile.  The small sailboat basin is at one end of the eighth mile and the bathrooms are at the other end.  They have what they call courtesy cars for marina people, but they are junkers.  We took one to the grocery store, and it was much better than walking, but it was really a junker.  Although the marina staff are great, our advise is to bypass Beaufort (if you are doing the ICW) and stop at The Dockside Marina in Moorhead City (MM 204.8) or Spooner Creek Marina (MM 210) instead.  We were told that there is room to anchor at Spooner's creek too.  While I was grilling  steaks in Beaufort a family of four that was passing by paid special attention to Endless Summer.  I said Hello to them.  Speaking English with a heavy French accent, the father said they also had a Hunter 31 in the anchorage.  He said they were going to the Bahamas.  Cool!  A family of four going to the Bahamas in a Hunter 31!

Underway Day 8 - October 29, 1996 - Tuesday
Beaufort, NC (MM  204.4) to Dudley's Marina, Swansboro, NC (MM 228.8)
Started diesel at 7:30 am. diesel meter at 68.1 hours
Underway at 7:50 am.
Docked at Dudley's Marina (MM228.3) at 11:50 am. diesel meter at 72.1 hours
Spent - $25.00 for dockage and ice $2.00
Left Beaufort Docks Marina at 7:50 am without incident.  Motored out the Beaufort Channel, crossed over to the Morehead City channel and proceeded south on the ICW.  (We learned that one can cross between the Beaufort and Morehead City channels as soon as the Radio Island is cleared.)  The tide and wind were with us all the way to Dudley's Marina (at MM 228.3), where we docked at 11:50 am.  Dudley's Marina  is a gas station with a marine store, bait and a few docks.  The bathrooms and showers were dirty.  The docks are adjacent to the ICW and parallel to it.  Wakes from any passing boat rock the entire marina.   Checkout Swan Point Marina (MM246.8).
 

Underway Day 9 - October 30, 1996 - Wednesday
Dudley's Marina (228.3) to Harbor Village Marina, Hampstead, NC - Visit Kraybills (Cousin)
Started diesel at 7:35 am, 72.2 hrs.
Left Dudley's Marina, Swansboro, NC  (MM 228.3) at 7:40 am
Tied up at Harbor Village Marina, Hampstead, NC  (MM 267.3) at 2:30 pm
Diesel meter reading 79.0 hrs.
Totals:  39.0 miles, 6 hours 50 minutes, approx. 5.7 mph average
Harbor Village Marina-$35.00, Dinner $18.00
Delayed getting underway due to rain..  Headed down the ICW hoping to get to Wilmington, NC to visit Walt (Cousin) and Stephanie Kraybill.  The wind, current and tides were against us all day.  Winds were on our bow and probably blowing 20-25 knots.  Pulled dinghy out of the water and stowed it on the bow. Walt (and son Max) picked us up at the marina at about 5:30 pm and we went to his beautiful home in Wrightsville Beach, NC.  Stephanie and daughter Allie got home shortly thereafter.  We all went to dinner at Wally's, next to the Wrightsville Beach Highway Bridge.  Walt took us back to Endless Summer and were went to bed at about 10:30 pm.  Harbor Village Marina is the best marina we have seen so far as far as it's amenities.  It is a protected concrete cove right off the ICW.  The only drawback is that they tie transients on the other side of the marina and it is a half a mile or so to walk around to the facilities.  There was no one to help us tie up, but a fellow transient was fortunately available.  Dorothy from Valhalla (Nauticat 33) helped us tie up.  This was the first time we had met Dorothy and Susie who have cruised the ICW for 30 years.  We had heard about them from the owner of the Great Bridge Bookstore, but had never met them.  They are delightful, and full of helpful cruising information.  Look at Wrightsville Marina Yacht Club.  We would like to have stayed at one of the marinas that is right in the middle of Wrightsville Beach but many were closed for repairs due to the pounding they got from a recent hurricane.

Underway Day 10 - October 31, 1996 - Thursday
Harbor Village Marina, Hampstead, NC to Carolina Beach anchorage
Started diesel at 7:30 am, 79.0 hrs.
Left Harbor Village Marina, Hampstead, NC  (MM 267.3) at 7:50 am
Anchored at Carolina Beach Harbor, Carolina Beach, NC  (MM 295.2) at 1:00 pm
Diesel meter reading 85.1 hrs.
Totals:  27.9 miles, 5 hours 10 minutes, approx. 5.4 mph average
Spent no money and Carolina Beach anchorage
We had a great day with little wind and no problems, but were held up by the Wrightsville Beach Highway Bridge for about 30 minutes.  We timed our speed between mile markers and figured we were doing about 6.5 miles per hour.  Susie switched from knots to mph and calibrated the speed to indicate about that.  We will continue to fine tune the speed as we go along.  This anchorage is nice.  It is basically a small harbor with condos all around.  Depths are 15-20 feet.  We anchored south of the second small island as suggested by the waterway guides.  The depth here is between 5 and 20 feet depending on the swing.  We only have out about 4:1 scope because we don't want to swing into the channel.  We don't expect much wind so feel confident that we are OK.  We were fine all night, and the anchor stayed hooked.
 

Underway on ICW Trip South
November 1, 1996 - December 28, 1996

Underway Day 11 - November 1, 1996 - Friday
Started diesel at 7:00 am, 85.1 hrs.
Carolina Beach Anchorage, Carolina Beach, NC  (MM 295.2 at 7:20 am
Tied up at Marsh Harbor Marina, Calabash, NC  (MM 342.7) at 4:15 pm
Diesel meter reading 94.3 hrs.
Totals:  47.5 miles, 8 hours 55 minutes, approx. 5.3 mph average
Marina $25.00, Dinner $25.00
Added 6 gal of diesel fuel
We planned a long day to get south of the Cape Fear River and to get south of an approaching cold front and winter temperatures.  We got confused at several points along the way.  Getting into and through Snow's Cut was no problem.  The tide was against us but not bad.  There are tidal swirls and weird currents, but we just paid rigid attention to them.  Tense moments occurred when exited Snow's Cut into the Cape Fear River and crossed some 6 foot water.  As a general lesson we have learned to find, and stay in the deepest part of any channel because there are shoals as we crossed any junction with other rivers or inlets.  The Cape Fear River's depth quickly increased to 35-40 feet in the shipping channel.  We were confused by the channel markers in the river.  They didn't match the markers on our 1993 The Intracoastal Waterway Chartbook'.  It was no problem because the channel is rather obvious.  Exiting the Cape Fear River at Southport, NC was a little tricky because the canal entrance was around a bend and we didn't see where to go until it was right in front of us.  The land cut was uneventful and appeared to be about 16 feet deep all the way.  Again, we found it important to stay in the deepest part of the waterway because every time we passed an inlet of any size there were shoals.  Sometimes we got down to 6 feet of depth.  We don't run aground until the depth meter reads about 3 feet (we draw about 5 feet), but where there is six feet, there is also 5, 4, 3, etc.  We found the channel into the Calabash River with no problem.  It is shallow, especially at low tide when we entered it.  It is a winding river.  We ran aground, but our three bladed power boat propeller allowed us to power through the mud.  The entrance to Marsh Harbor is clearly marked and a welcome haven from the trip.  The marina is about a quarter of a mile down a dirt road from Baley's Restaurant.  Mr. Baley will provide transportation to and from the marina.  We had shrimp and flounder and it was excellent.  The total bill was $25 including tip, and we had enough leftovers for another dinner on the boat.  The marina facilities are in the very small dock masters building.  There is only one shower and one bathroom.  Both were dirty and there were small green tree frogs on the walls.  They ate the mosquitoes.  Next time we will look into staying at Coquina Harbor Marina (MM 346), Harbor Gate Marina Village (MM 347.3), or The Marina at Dock Holiday's (MM 348.2).

Underway Day 12 - November 2, 1996 - Saturday
Did not Start diesel
Remained Tied up at Marsh Harbor Marina, Calabash, NC due to bad weather
Diesel meter reading 94.3 hrs.
Totals:  0 miles
Marina $25.00, Ice-$2.00
We remained docked at Marsh Harbor Marina due to a passing cold front.  It rained most of the day, sometimes hard.  We put up our cockpit tarps.  Both worked very well and allowed me to work in the cockpit during the rain.  Susie continued to organize and throw stuff away and I mounted shelves.  Now we have a shelf across the forward overhead in the V- berth and a small one in the aft quarter berth.  Now we have a place to hang jackets aft and more clothes storage forward.  It was a long work day, but a refreshing change from standing behind the wheel with eyes glued to the depth gage and the markers.  Tomorrow the weather is supposed to clear up.
 

Underway Day 13 - November 3, 1996 - Sunday
Started diesel at 8:10 am,  94.3 hrs. on diesel meter
Left Marsh Harbor Marina, Calabash, NC (MM 342.7) at 8:40 am
Tied up at Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, NC (MM 377.3) at 2:55 pm
Diesel meter reading 101.0 hrs.
Totals:  34.6 miles,  6 hours 15 minutes, approx. 5.5 mph average
Added 6 gallons of diesel fuel at Bucksport, it did not fill the tank
Marina-$21.00, Ice $4.00, Diesel Fuel-$6.60
We didn't leave Marsh Harbor Marina until 8:40 am because we wanted to wait for the tide to come in a little.  We dieseled down the Calabash River very slowly and were careful to avoid shallow water.  We made it with no problems and headed southbound down the ICW.  The temperatures were in the low 40s and there was enough wind to chill the bones.  We dressed warmly and were comfortable behind the dodger, bimini and connecting piece.  Our passage through Pine Cut (approx. MM 350) and the rock pile was uneventful.  There were few markers, so we often didn't know exactly where we were.  It didn't matter because all we had to do was stay in the canal's channel and continue south bound.  We only had one unexpected delay.  The Little River Highway Bridge had a broken traffic gate and it delayed the opening for about 20 minutes.  The Waccamaw River and the ICW around it are beautiful.  The channel is deep and the banks are lined with moss covered trees.  We decided to stay at a marina instead of anchoring because of the predicted 30 degree overnight temperatures.  We passed the anchorages at MM 377-381 and they looked wonderful.  Maybe on our trip back north we can anchor there.  The Bucksport Marina in no palace but it is convenient because it is right on the ICW.  There is a convenience store, a liquor store and of course power and fuel.  The bath rooms are in an old trailer that is about 100 yards from the docks.  Look into the anchorage at Throughfare Creek 388.8.

Underway Day 14 - November 4, 1996 - Monday
Started diesel at 7:50 am,  101.0 hrs. on diesel meter
Left Bucksport Marina, Bucksport, NC (MM 377.3) at 8:05 am
Tied up at Harborwalk Marina, Georgetown, SC (MM 404.2) at 11:50 am
Diesel meter reading 105.0 hrs.
Totals:  26.9 miles,  3 hours 45 minutes, approx. 7.2 mph average
Marina-$31.00, Groceries-$55.00, Fresh Shrimp-$10.00, Laundry-$4.00
It was very easy to get underway from Bucksport Marina because the dock is parallel to the waterway and just off the channel.  Again It was a little tricky reading the deepest part of the channel in the winding Waccamaw River.  We only had a few shallow areas, but we kept our eyes glued on the markers and the depth gage.  Most of the time we would be OK if we just stayed in the middle of the river, no matter where the markers were.  As indicated by our overall speed of 7.2 mph, we got a boost from the river current.  The current also caused tricky swirls that pushed us around a little (another thing we had to pay attention to).  It was cold in the morning, but the temperatures rose quickly, and by 10 am we were shedding a layer of outer garments.  We studied the approach to Georgetown the night before, so we knew what we needed to do.  Still we were right outside of the approach to Georgetown harbor before we could see the way in.  We tied up at the Harborwalk Marina easily.  We did laundry and made a grocery run.  The local grocery store provides transportation for boaters.  I stayed at the Laundromat and finished the clothes while Susie went to the grocery store.  I worked on the leaky holding tank problem.  It remains unfixed and dripping slowly.  I made a drip pan out of aluminum foil, so we can easily dispose of any drippage.  I'll try to figure a fix later.  Again, we are unimpressed with this marina.  We are spoiled by all the amenities at marinas in the Chesapeake Bay.  This one has only a few slips and no laundry facilities.  The restrooms and showers are adequate and clean.  The town of Georgetown, SC is quaint but nothing to write home about.  Again, we are spoiled by Williamsburg, Jamestown, Waterside, Portsmouth, etc.  There is a nice anchorage just across from this marina.  We needed to stay where we could get AC power because of the cold night temperature and to do our laundry, etc.  The boats at anchor are in the 37-45 foot range.  There is probably a batch of big northern boats that are equipped with heaters that don't mind the cold  weather that come south this late in the season.  We haven't seen many sailboats in the 30 foot range.  We are told that many already went south.  Most people who have smaller boats must pass through southern Virginia in early October.  Maybe we'll run into some of them in Florida, or along the way.

Underway Day 15 - November 5, 1996 - Tuesday
Started diesel at  8:40 am,  105.0 hrs. on diesel meter
Left Harborwalk Marina, Georgetown, SC (MM 404.2) at 8:50 am
Arrived at anchorage at Price Creek north of Charleston, SC (MM 448.2) at 3:15 pm
Finished anchoring at 5:00 pm - had trouble with wind and current
Diesel meter reading 113.0 hrs.
Totals: 44 miles, 6 hours 25 minutes, approx. 6.8 mph average
Bought 15 gallons of diesel fuel
no money spent at anchor
Left Harborwalk Marina late because marina person didn't arrive until 8 am and we needed fuel.  I poured 12 gallons of diesel fuel into the tank and she took it all.  Then I filled the cans again and she took another 2-3 gallons.  The tank was full to the brim when we left the marina.  Missed marker in Winyah Bay (Approx. MM 406) where the ICW heads toward the cut.  We saw our error and recovered.  We had trouble anchoring due to wind and very strong current.  This is the first time we experienced a strong tidal current combined with a stiff breeze.  We finally got anchored, but with a bow anchor (delta) and a stern anchor (danforth) we were cock eyed to the current.  We didn't know how we would swing when the tide changed so I slept on the dinette so I could check the anchors during the night.  All in all we had a good day.  We decided to make our normal day about 40 miles instead of about 30 miles.  We had to replan the rest of the trip with the new times.  Next time try anchoring at Five Fathom Creek, off Town Creek (MM430.0).

Underway Day 16 - November 6, 1996 - Wednesday
Started diesel at  6:55 am,  113.0.0 hrs. on diesel meter
Left Price Creek north of Charleston, SC (MM 448.2) at 7:10 am
Arrived at anchorage at New Cut Landing, south of Charleston, SC (MM 487.6) at 1:30 pm
Finished anchoring at 2:00 pm - had a little (but much less)trouble with wind and current
Diesel meter reading 120.1 hrs.
Totals: 39.4 miles, 6 hours 20 minutes, approx. 6.2 mph average
Added approx. 3 gallons of diesel fuel.
I got up at about 4 am while in the Price Creek anchorage and pulled the stern anchor so we would swing on the bow anchor only.  We pulled the bow anchor at about 7 am and left the anchorage without incident.  The anchorage was OK except for the strong current, our inexperience in anchoring in tidal rivers and we were the only boat there.  As we passed an anchorage at Five Fathom Creek, off Town Creek (MM430.0) we saw several boats anchored.  We should have anchored there instead of Price Creek.  The ICW winds through coastal marsh lands toward Charleston, SC.  As we rounded a bend and had  the Ben Sawyer Bridge (MM 462.2) in sight we saw a horrible sight.  Several miles ahead we could see several boats waiting for the bridge opening, but we also saw a mast off to the left with a big aground angle.  Sure enough, we passed the boat and it was a 42-45 foot boat that was high and in very little water.  They probably arrived at the bridge during the restricted (non-opening time) and anchored, possibly for a nap, to wait for as much as two hours.  There was a guy sitting at an uncomfortable angle in the cockpit, and his mate was out of sight.  The out going tide must have grounded them.  The same boat is anchored right next to us now, they obviously got ungrounded quickly.  We followed a parade of boats (sail and power) down the ICW and into Charleston Harbor.  This was big water with some wind and waves but our crossing was uneventful.  We had studied the route on the charts and we had other boats to follow.  South of Charleston we passed through muddy swamps with a winding channel.  Again we kept our eyes glued to the chart, the markers, the shorelines and the depth gage.  We were the first boat to arrive in this anchorage (New Cut Landing).  Again the combination of tidal current and gusty winds prevented the boat from swinging nicely on one anchor off the bow.  We put out a little better than 7:1 scope, set the anchor and settled down for a drink, dinner and a restful night.  We were joined at the anchorage, one boat at a time until there were (in addition to us) 5 sailboats (2 catamarans) and two trawlers.  This is a highly recommended anchorage.  I checked the boat twice during the night and everything was as we had left it.  We woke up at 5:30 and we are still just fine
 

Underway Day 17 - November 7, 1996 - Thursday
Started diesel at 7:00 am,  121.1 hrs. on diesel meter
Left New Cut Landing south of Charleston, SC (MM 486.7) at 7:10 am
Arrived at Downtown Marina of Beaufort, Beaufort, SC (MM 536.3) at 2:30 pm
Diesel meter reading 127.6 hrs.
Dock fee $31.00
Totals: 49.4 miles, 7 hours 20 minutes, approx. 6.7 mph average
Added 9.65 gallons of diesel fuel for 13 hours and 40 minutes or .72 gal per hour
We left the New Cut Landing anchorage at MM 486.6 without incident.  The anchorage was deep and beautiful.  It was at first a typical ICW day of narrow channels in narrow canals and wide rivers.  We missed a marker again (approx. MM490.5) and went the wrong way, but recovered in time.  Often the markers are obscured by background buildings or foliage, and sometimes the charts aren't clear about directions.  We think we decided on a real cruising rule, which is:  If we don't see the next marker, or don't know where it is, we will stop, or slow to a crawl until we know where it is.  In the ICW you can be in trouble very quickly if you leave the channel. After passing through the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff canal (MM 516.3) we entered the Coosaw River.  At the junction we passed over water the was less than 7 feet.  Again we observed severe shoaling almost every time we passed a junction of two bodies of water.  The Coosaw River is wide but shallow.  We saw two rain showers off to our left and it appeared that their courses and ours would meet.  We closed all the hatches and donned our rain gear.  The lead rain area was out running us and the second was following behind.  We slowed hoping the first one would pass in front of us and the other one behind us.  It worked!  We only got a short rain sprinkle as the first rain squall passed ahead of us and the second one passed to our stern.  We had intended to anchor in Brickyard Creek at MM 530.6.  As we approached the anchorage the wind quickly built.  We looked at the anchorage and didn't like what we saw.  It was a mud swamp and there were crab pots even in the middle of the creek.  This usually indicates water too shallow for comfort, given the 4-5 foot tide swings.  We looked for alternatives, and decided to head for the Downtown Marina in Beaufort, SC.  We tied up at there marina at 2:30 pm.  This is a very nice marina with friendly staff and a wonderful dock person named Leo.  Although there are no grocery stores or other supply stores close to it, we highly recommend this marina.  Check out anchorage in the South Edisto River (MM504.3).

Underway Day 18 - November 8, 1996 - Friday
Did not start diesel
Stayed at Downtown Marina, Beaufort, SC (MM 536.3) all day due to bad weather
Diesel meter reading 127.6 hrs.
Dock fee $31.00
Totals: no miles, no hours no minutes, no approx. mph average
The marina is full of sail and power boats waiting out the bad weather.  We had high winds all night and a front will pass through today.  Heavy winds and rain are predicted.  Today will be an inside work and relaxation day.  This is where we first met Muriel and Jack Boyle on Canadian Sunset (30' S-2).  We saw Wings II but we did not meet Bob and Louise then.  Look at anchorage in Chowan Creek (MM544.2).

Underway Day 19 - November 9, 1996 - Saturday
Started diesel at 7:05 am, meter reading 127.7
Left Downtown Marina, Beaufort, SC (MM 536.3) at 7:13 am
Arrived at Harbortown Marina, Hilton Head, SC (MM 564.9) at 12:00 noon diesel meter 132.3
Totals: 28.6 miles, 4 hours 50 minutes, 5.9 approx. mph average
Dock fee $38.75
We left the Downtown Marina at Beaufort, SC without incident, and started down the ICW.  This was the most uncomfortable day thus far.  The wind increased as we headed down the Beaufort River.  Crossing the Port Royal Sound was rough, in fact the roughest water we had seen.  It remained very windy and rough as we approached Hilton Head on the Calibogue Sound.  It was cold all the way too.  We had no relief from the wind and cold until we turned into the marina basin.  The marina personnel guide you to your slip in a small boat.  They help you tie up and hand you a bottle of wine.  We had dinner with Jack and Muriel Boyle (Canadian Sunset) at the Quartedeck Restaurant at the Marina, and had a great time.  We met Bob and Louise on Wings II.  They were docked next to us.
 

Underway Day 20 - November 10, 1996 - Sunday
Started diesel at 8:05 am, meter reading 132.3
Left Harbour Town Marina at Hilton Head, SC (MM 564.9) at am
Arrived at Savannah River Bend Marina, Thunderbolt, SC (MM 582.4)  diesel meter at 136.0
Dock fee $31.00 + $4.00  for electric power (free laundry)
Added 4 gallons of diesel fuel and filled the diesel jugs
Totals: 18.4 miles, 3 hours 28 minutes, approx. 5.2 mph average
Left the Harbour Town Marina, crossed the Calibogue Sound and entered the series of rivers and cuts that make up  the ICW.  There were many times the channels were narrow and the banks not far away.  Canadian Sunset was ahead of us by about a half hour and they contacted us by radio to warn us of some channel marker changes.  Another person added some details to the route we should take to avoid an unmarked shoal.  The problems were at the entrance and exit to Fields Cut (MM 573.3 to MM 575.7).  The numbers on the entrance markers had changed, plus we were advised to make a hard 90 degree turn at Green Lighted Marker 47 (shown on our charts as Green Lighted Marker 45).  We did as we were advised and had no problems.  Canadian Sunset advised us of a shrimp boat approaching us from the opposite direction, in the narrow cut, with it's booms extended.  We passed him at a wide spot and had no clearance problems.  Where Fields Cut enters the Savannah River, what our charts showed as Red Lighted Marker 48 was actually Red Lighted Marker 50.  As we crossed from the cut into the Savannah River we crossed some water that was only 6-8 feet deep.  We continued on our way and due to the cold weather decided to do a short day and stop at the Savannah River Bend Marina.  The marina was very nice, although at low tide we were hard aground in our slip.  The marina gave us a ride to the local Publix Market and we resupplied with some fresh meat, vegetables and other food.  Palmer Johnson Marina is at MM 583.1 but it was full.

Underway Day 21 - November 11, 1996 - Monday
Started diesel at 7:40 am, meter reading 136.0
Left Savannah River Bend Marina, Thunderbolt, SC (MM 582.4)  at 7:55 am
Arrived at Delegal Creek Marina (ICW MM 600.9 + 2 miles) at 10:50 am diesel meter at 139.2
Dock fee $23.25 + $6.00 for electricity
Totals: 20.5 miles, 2 hours 45 minutes, approx. 7.5 mph average
Left the Savannah River Bend Marina and headed south down the ICW.  It was cold again and we decided to make it another short day and head for Delegal Creek Marina, only 20 miles away.  The wind built as the day progressed and the wind chill was very cold.  We faced a fierce current as we headed up the Steamboat Cut and into Delegal Creek.  We made it fine, but we had to dock in head-on currents we had not before confronted.  Our idea is to make progress on our journey while subjecting ourselves to as little harsh weather as possible.  The only problem is that the 30 degree nights are expected to continue.  We will either have to stay at this marina for a day or so, or do a long day and an anchorage in the cold weather

Underway Day 22 - November 12, 1996 -Tuesday
Started diesel at 7:00 am, meter reading 139.2
Left Delegal Creek Marina, near Savannah, GA (MM 602.9)  at 7:15 am
Arrived at New Teakettle Creek anchorage (ICW MM 646.8) at 2:40 pm diesel meter at 146.8
Added almost 6 gallons of diesel fuel before leaving anchor.
Totals: 43.9 miles, 7 hours 35 minutes, approx. 5.8 mph average
Left Delegal Creek Marina in a stiff incoming tidal current.  Backed out of the slip against the current and exited the marina without incident.  The day started out cold and warmed a little by 11 am.  We folded the bimini top back to provide more sun exposure to ourselves.  It worked, except whenever the wind blew, we were cold.  When it didn't, we were hot.  We had to remove and replace layers of clothing over and over again.  The anchorage was beautiful.  We were the second sailboat at anchor.  Solitude, a Tartan 37 was already there (we met them again in Marathon, FL).  About seven more boats came in over the next hour or so.  This was our first anchorage in near freezing night temperatures. We slept, bundled up on the dinette and fired up the propane heater in the morning when we got up.  Added almost 6 gallons of diesel fuel before leaving the anchorage.  There is also an anchorage in Cattle Pen Creek (MM 625.5).
 

Underway Day 23 - November 13, 1996 -Wednesday
Started diesel at 7:08 am, meter reading 146.8
Left New Teakettle Creek anchorage (ICW MM 646.8) at 7:15 am
Arrived at Jekyll Harbor Marina (MM 684.9) at 1:00 pm
Added almost 6 gallons of diesel fuel
(See days 24-27 for costs)
Totals: 37.6 miles, 5 hours 45 minutes, approx. 6.5 mph average
Left the New Teakettle Creek anchorage without incident.  Crossed Doboy Sound and Altima Sound in smooth water.  When we crossed St. Simons sound the wind had built and we had an uncomfortable following sea.  Other than that we did fine.  We docked at Jekyll Harbor Marina, topped off the diesel fuel tank and bought 7.9 gallons of diesel fuel which was put in the diesel jugs.

(Not) Underway Day 24, 25, 26, & 27 - November 14-17, 1996 - Thursday-Sunday - At Jeckyll Harbor Marina
Dock fee for 4 days $130.00  We also spent money at the food and liquor stores
Bought an electric heater ($60.00) and a BBA Chart Kit for the Florida East Coast (and the Keys) $115.00
Due to predicted high winds and rough passing conditions in the Cumberland Sound we, and many others elected to stay at Jekyll Harbor Marina to wait out the weather.  A few boats left on Sunday morning, November 17, but we stayed another day and left Monday November 18, 1996 with the rest.

Underway Day 28 - November 18, 1996 - Monday
Started diesel at 7:25 am, meter reading 152.9
Left Jekyll Harbour Marina (ICW MM 684.9) at 7:40 am
Arrived at Alligator Creek anchorage, near Amelia Island, FL (MM 726.1) at 2:00 pm
Totals: 41.7 miles, 6 hours 20 minutes, approx. 6.6 mph average
Left Jekyll Harbour Marina with several other boats.  Crossing St. Andrew sound was the major event that caused people to wait out the high winds.  Evidently the seas can build to excess of 8 feet quickly.  To cross St. Andrew sound you must go around Red Lighted Buoy 32, which is at the ocean entrance to the sound.  The crossing was a little exciting.  We headed into ocean swells of about 1-2 feet until we made the hard right turn at Marker 32 when we experienced a marginally obnoxious following sea.  The passage was fine, but we would not want to make it in any heavier conditions.  After that it was more cuts and canals.  Especially annoying were the times when the narrow channel would cut diagonally across a river.  Many times the exact turns were not marked, and we had to find it by reading the depth gage and the crab pots.  We unfurled the jib as we approached King's Bay.  We picked up about .4 mph.  When we entered narrow waters we didn't want sails up because they reduce visibility, and make the markers harder to see.  Wings II anchored in Alligator Creek ahead of us.  It's nice to not be alone in a creek anchorage.  Look at anchorage in Wally's Leg (MM666.1).
 

Underway Day 29 - November 19, 1996 - Tuesday
Started diesel at 6:55 am, meter reading 159.7
Left Alligator Creek anchorage, near Amelia Island, FL (MM 726.1) at 7:00 am
Arrived at St. Augustine Municipal Marina (ICW MM 778.3) at 4:05 pm
Dock Fee $32.55, Electric $4.50, 7.7 gal diesel fuel $10.21, tax 1.96=Total $49.22
Totals: 52.2 miles, 9 hours 0 minutes, approx. 5.8 mph average
The Alligator Creek Anchorage at MM 726.1 was fine.  We entered at about high tide and left at about the middle of the incoming tide and had no water level problems.  We had scary problems at MM 729.4.   The markers at the junction of the Nassau River and the Sawpit Creek land cut did not match either of our charts and there was severe shoaling where we were supposed to make the turn.  Wings II was just ahead of as.  She cut to idle speed and drifted across the shoal with the tide.  Following Wings II's path we idled across, and saw 5 foot depths.  We draw a little less than 5 feet.  It was dead low tide.  This section should only be negotiated on an incoming tide at about one half way to high tide.  Several sailboats ran aground at the Nassau River junction later that day.   After we were in the land cut, we saw depths of 6-7 feet for a couple of hours.  It was tedious.  We had narrow, relatively shallow cuts and creeks much of the day.  Crossing the St. Johns river was no problem, except we faced strong tidal currents there (and all day in fact).  A favorable tide can add at least one mph to the daily average speed.  Wings II called us and said they were going on to St. Augustine instead of anchoring at Pine Island (MM 765.0).  We asked them to reserve a slip for us too, and we would do the same thing.  As we passed the Pine Island anchorage at about 1:30 pm, it was already filling up with boats.  We saw three sailboats and one trawler anchored or anchoring.  It looked like a good place.  The Toloma River, which is the northern approach to St. Augustine is wide and the channel deepens.  Crossing the St. Augustine Inlet and finding the approach to St. Augustine was tricky, again because of the markers.  There were two new markers - 58D and 58E and Red Nun 60 was hard to find.  All were smaller than we expected.  We found them all and passed by Red #2 to turn toward St. Augustine.  We had to wait for 5 minutes for the Bridge of Lyons Highway Bridge.  The marina is just south of the bridge.  We docked next to Wings II.  We topped off the fuel tank on Endless Summer and refilled the fuel cans with 7.7 gallons of fuel.  We had dinner with Bob and Louise (Wings II) and Robin and Jill (Duality).  We went to sleep at 9:30 pm.  (Special note:  we listened in on channel 16 for about two hours as the U.S. Coast Guard handled a mayday call from a shrimper in the ocean off St. Augustine.  Apparently the skipper of the boat and his brother were shrimping off shore when the skipper started having convulsions.  The younger brother put out the mayday call.  Since he was the only other person on the boat, he could not answer the coast guard because he was bringing in the shrimping gear in preparation for bringing the boat into port.  Eventually the Coast Guard auxiliary put medical people aboard the shrimp boat and the skipper was medivac'd via helicopter.  The remaining brother brought the boat into St. Augustine.  It was interesting to hear the whole thing played out.  First the Coast Guard closed channel 16 to all radio traffic except that associated with the distress call.  Everybody who could help, did.  Other shrimpers relayed information.  We had no way to contact anyone because channel 16 was closed to routine traffic - a minor inconvenience.  We need a new VHF radio that has more channels.)
 

Underway Day 30 - November 20, 1996 - Wednesday
Started diesel at 6:55 am, meter reading 169.0
Left St. Augustine Municipal Marina (ICW MM 778.3) at 7:00 am
Arrived at Halifax Harbor Marina, Daytona Beach, FL at 4:00 pm
Dock Fee 29.45, Ice 1.09, Tax 1.83 Total $32.37
Bought Standard 250S Hand Held VHF
Totals: 52.8 miles, 9 hours 0 minutes, approx. 5.8 mph average
We left the St. Augustine Municipal Marina without incident and continued southbound down the ICW.  Duality was ahead of us and Wings II was behind us.  Wings II passed us after about an hour.  With their main sail hoisted they probably do about 7.5 mph and we do about 5.8 mph.  After we continued through the typical winding creeks and cuts we approached the Matanzas Inlet.  Our waterway guides had warned us about continuous shoaling that occurs at this inlet.  A sailboat ahead of us reported that anyone crossing the inlet must pass Green Markers 81A and 81B between the markers and the shore.  As we approached the area we were behind Wings II and Duality.  Wings II asked Duality (a catamaran that draws only 18 inches to go ahead and report depth conditions to us as we passed the shoaling areas.  She agreed.  We all switched to VHF channel 68 so we could constantly report to each other.  Duality zig zagged to find the channel and reported depths.  Wings II followed Duality's instructions and saw depths as little as 5 feet.  We all had to pass Green 81A and Green 81B on our port side, with only about 75 feet between us and the bank of the river.  Then we had to make a hard left turn and pass to the left of side of  Red 82.  We stayed a little more off the beach than Wings II and never say less than 6-7 feet.  Without warnings from preceding boats and the lead of Duality and Wings II we would have had a potential grounding problem.  It is of utmost importance to team with boats of like draft and speed when crossing the shoaling areas along the ICW.  We had the jib unfurled numerous times as the winds were favorable for it's deployment.  Once we were on the verge of running aground when I was paying too much attention to steering for favorable wind angles and neglecting the channel depths.  Fortunately Susie saw the depth gage report 5.8 feet and told me to turn toward the channel just in time.  (Susie and I make a great crew.)  The waterway that approaches Daytona Beach from the north is wide, but it has a narrow channel.  We had good wind out of the West so we sailed on the jib, which increased our speed and exhilaration factor.  The bridges in  Florida claim to monitor VHF channels 16 and 9 and only respond on channel 9.  When requesting a bridge opening we had to immediately report that we did not have channel 9 and that we must therefore monitor them on channel 16.  At least one of the bridges in the Daytona only monitored channel 9.  Fortunately one of the other bridges relayed our opening request for us and we made the opening.  There are four bridges in the Daytona Beach area, the first of which, the Seabreeze Highway opens every 15 minutes.  Since we did not have channel 9 we did not know that and missed an opening by about 10 minutes.  After making the 3:30 pm opening at that bridge the other three opened for us as we approached them.  We tied up at the Halifax Harbor Marina near Wings II who had made reservations for us.  Bob and I visited the on-site  West Marine store where I bought a Standard 250S hand held VHF, so we would have all the channels we would need.  We later found that we had channel 9 all the time, but somehow overlooked it.  Another mystery!  We had dinner on board Wings II and retired back aboard Endless Summer by 9 pm.  (Bob drinks Vodka on the rocks.)
 

Underway Day 31 - November 21, 1996 - Thursday
Started diesel at 7:25 am, meter reading 178.0
Left Halifax Harbor Marina, Daytona Beach, FL (MM 831.1) at 7:31 am
Arrived at Titusville Municipal Marina (MM 878.0) at 3 pm
Dock Fee $23.25, Electricity $3.00, Tax 1.69, Fuel $11.50-Total $41.32
Totals: 46.9 miles, 7 hours 30 minutes, approx. 6.2 mph average
changed diesel oil and filter at 185.6 hrs.
Topped off Endless Summer's diesel tank and bought 7.9 gal. diesel fuel
We left the Halifax Harbour Marina, Daytona Beach, FL without incident and headed south.  We knew of only one potentially bad area along the day's planned route - the three junctions of the ICW with the Ponce de Leon Inlet.  The tide was going out, but it was only about half way out when we crossed the reported shoals.  We saw 8-10 feet or so and had no problem at the tide level that existed when we passed.   We had the genoa deployed most of the day and we consistently saw speeds of 6.5 to 6.8 mph.  The Indian River and Banana River are beautiful.  They are wide and open and shallow bodies of water with lots of small islands, pelicans and dolphins.  We overheard Jack and Muriel on Canadian Sunset report a problem with their diesel engine to Me Own QE.  Jack said he had experienced a loss of RPMs twice, and suspected he had a bad tank of fuel.  They slowed to put less stress on their  diesel.  We were the last boat in the parade, so we came up behind Canadian Sunset and slowed to stay with them in case they had an engine failure.  We slowed to less than 5 MPH and followed them all the way to the bridge before we had to turn into the Titusville Municipal Marina.  They only had  4 miles to go to their marina, and their diesel was holding up OK.  Jack later found that his diesel fuel filter was clogged.  Our daily average speed would probably have been around 6.5 MPH if we hadn't slowed.  We heard a call Endless Summer - this is Packet Inn.  We responded and the person said Is this the Endless Summer that was at the Dismal Swamp Canal Welcome Station in North Carolina two years ago?  Susie responded Yes.  It was Jack from Packet Inn, a 31 foot Island Packet (Packet Inn) owned by Jack and Terri.  We met them at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Station in October 1994 where they and four other cruising couples tried to convince us that we should move aboard Endless Summer and join them as migrating boat people.  Jack said he had heard us using the boat name Endless Summer and wanted to know if we were Roger and Susie from Chesapeake, VA.  We were.  We thanked them for their part in helping us decide to go cruising.  They told us they planned to spend the winter in North Ft. Meyers Beach, FL.  We had a great day on the water.  We topped off the fuel tank on Endless Summer and refilled the two fuel jugs with 7.9 gallons of diesel fuel.  We used a little less than .5 gallons per hour.  It looks like we use between .5 and .75 gallons per hour, depending on wind and tide conditions.   I changed the diesel oil too, at 185.6 hours on the diesel meter.  Susie and I walked to a Kentucky Fried Chicken place and bought a bunch of chicken.  We stuffed ourselves on the high fat chicken while watching Jeopardy and Wheel of Fortune.  What a nice ending to a wonderful day.  Wings II is docked beside us, and we plan to go to an anchorage on the Banana River tomorrow at MM 914.1.

Underway Day 32 - November 22, 1996 - Friday
Started diesel at 7:25 am, meter reading 185.6
Left Titusville Marina, Titusville, FL (MM 878.0) at 7:30 am
Arrived at Intracoastal Marina, Melbourne, FL (MM 918.1) at 12:45 pm
Totals: 40.0 miles, 5 hours 15 minutes, approx. 7.6 mph average
This was a wonderful day on the ICW.  We had the genoa unfurled all day and made our best speed of the trip.  We usually had it only about three fourths unfurled to allow for better forward visibility (of channel markers) and to prevent it from grabbing an anchor on the bow rail.  Today we let it all hang out and it was wonderful.  Susie noticed a foul odor coming from the V-berth area.  Upon further inspection we found that the access port on top of the holding tank was leaking.  We decided to make it a short day and  fix the problem.  We tied up at the Intracoastal Marina, found a marine store and bought the part, and returned to Endless Summer.  We replaced a vent valve and started the process of cleaning the holding tank overflow mess.  For odor reasons we decided to sleep on the dinette until the V-berth is more people friendly.  The Intracoastal Marina was very exposed to the easterly winds we were experiencing, and we rocked all night.  Not bad, but a little uncomfortable.
 

Underway Day 33 - November 23, 1996 - Saturday
Started diesel at 6:50 am, meter reading 191.0
Left Intracoastal Marina, Melbourne, FL (MM 918.1) at 6:55 am
Arrived at Ft. Pierce City Docks, Ft. Pierce, FL (MM 966.5) at 2:40 pm
Dock Fee $29.45, Electricity $4.00, plus 6.4 gallons of diesel fuel = total $44.51
Totals: 48.5 miles, 7 hours 45 minutes, approx. 6.2 mph average
Topped Endless Summer's diesel tank and bought 6.4 gal. diesel fuel
We left the Intracoastal Marina in adverse wind conditions.  We had to back directly into the easterly wind, and make a turn toward the marina channel.  Endless Summer performed flawlessly.  The three bladed propeller seems to give us much more power.  We couldn't sail because the wind was strong and on our bow all day.  We crossed the Fort Pierce inlet on an outgoing tide.  The currents were tricky, especially crossing the inlet and under all bridges.  The wind added to the excitement, but Endless Summer handled it all in stride.  We docked at the Fort Pierce City Docks Marina.  The approach to the marina is exposed to the currents that are racing to, or from Fort Pierce Inlet, and one must pay attention to the current pulling or pushing the boat out of the marina channel.  The current also rips through the marina.  This makes for exciting docking and undocking.  American Beauty arrived shortly after we did.  She is an Alden 44 Sloop owned and lived aboard by Hal and Cyndee.  They told us about hitting an overhead power cable near Cocoa Beach, FL.  They  passed under a 65' bridge and some power cables and were looking for an anchorage.  The overhead cables were at 80 feet at the center of the ICW channel.  As they looked for an anchorage their mast hit the power cables.  It caused a large bang, like lighting and forced American Beauty in a downward motion and they noticed smoke coming from the lazarette lockers.  The power line voltage had come down the mast and was grounded by the boat's ground plane in the bottom of the boat.  It took out the radar and the VHF.  A throw rug that was next to the keel stepped mast was smoldering and a large burn mark was now at the base of the mast.  Hal and Cyndee were fine, but they learned a lesson we all need to remember.  They were going to Rybovich Spencer in Riveria Beach, FL for repairs and inspections.  We went to sleep early on Endless Summer so we could get an early start the next morning.

Underway Day 34 - November 24, 1996 - Sunday
Started diesel at 6:55 am, meter reading 198.8
Left Ft. Pierce City Marina, Ft. Pierce, FL (MM966.5) at 7:00 am
Arrived at Rybovich Spence Marina, Lake Worth, FL (MM 1019.6) 3:45 pm
Totals: 53.1 miles, 8 hours 45 minutes, approx. 6.0 mph average
We helped American Beauty undock in the ripping current and then got ourselves underway.  It is shallow at the junction of the St. Lucie Inlet and the ICW and bad currents exist.  We also found shallow depths at the south exit of Jupiter Inlet.  We decided to go past our planned anchorage at North Lake Worth off Old Port Cove (MM 1015.1).  The anchorage is about one mile north of the junction of the ICW with Lake Worth, which means one mile the wrong way.  We decided to go on to Rybovich Spencer, which is four miles farther south.  We experienced the biggest waves of the entire trip as we transited Lake Worth in a southerly direction.  Actually they were wakes, not waves, and they were produced by oncoming huge sports fisherman boats.  This area should not be crossed on weekends and holidays.  The area around Peanut Island (MM 118.3) is a zoo.  People in every conceivable type of water craft swarm across the water.  The ICW channel makes a westerly turn at the north end of Peanut Island and shoals exist on each side of the channel.  Boats were anchored and rafted alongside the channel and in the channel.  We slowly picked our way through the chaos and made our way to Rybovich.  Our slip assignment was poor, but we did not know it until we were tied up.  It was designed for a boat about 50 feet long.  We had to use spare anchor lines to reach the stern pilings.  This marina was exposed to the east winds, and Endless Summer rocked every moment she was tied there.  American Beauty was already there and Hal and Cyndee helped the dock person tie us.  We had a beer afterward and shared stories.  We ate dinner and went to bed early to prepare for another long day, our final day on this leg of the adventure.  We had two choices for what time to get up the next morning.  There are three bridges in our path that have opening restrictions that begin at 7:30 am and end around 9:00 am.  They each had one opening during the restricted times.  We could either leave Rybovich at 6:30 am and get through the bridges or leave at 8:00 am and time the mid restriction openings.  We opted for the latter.
 

Underway Day 35 - November 25, 1996 - Monday
Started diesel at 7:48 am, meter reading 207.7
Left Rybovich Spencer, Riveira Beach, FL (MM 1019.6) at 8:00 am
Arrived at home of Stan and Marilyn Clarke in Deerfield Beach, FL (MM 1051.0) 3:00 pm
diesel meter 215.2
Totals: 31.4, 7 hours 0 minutes, approx. 4.5 mph average
Hal and Cyndee (from American Beauty) and the dockmaster helped us undock.  We had a strong wind on our starboard side and we had to get the long stern lines released while the wind fought us.  Once loose we again backed out into contrary winds and turned to exit the marina.  The trip this day started with bridge considerations, and bridge associated issues plagued us all day.  The ICW was beautiful, but the bridges plentiful.  We heard two familiar boat names on the radio, namely Footloose and Impulse.  Footloose is owned and lived aboard on by Mike and Nancy Proctor and Impulse is a 44 foot CSY owned and lived aboard by Mike and Pat Davidson, and we knew they were both headed south, and close to one another.  As we approached the Flagler Memorial Bridge (MM1021.8) we noticed a catamaran that, from a distance looked like Footloose.  We tried to reach them on channel 16 without success.  We also tried to reach Inpulse on channel 16 without success.  As we got closer to the catamaran we verified the name and home port - it was Footloose, Norfolk, VA.  Again we could not contact Footloose on channel 16.  Since we were the slowest boat in the pack we followed everyone from bridge to bridge.  Florida bridges monitor channel 19 (only), so Susie hailed Footloose on that channel.  Footloose responded and we went to channel 68.  Susie told Mike who we were and he was shocked.  We told him we were right behind them.  Small world-after over 1000 miles on the ICW we meet at this bridge.  We followed them all the way to Deerfield.  We were delayed at least an hour delayed by a broken bridge at Spanish River Road (40th Street) in North Boca Raton.  We made it to our dock located on a canal off the ICW behind the home of Stan and Marilyn Clarke in Deerfield Beach, FL about 1/2 mile south of the Hillsboro Blvd. ICW bridge.  We found the canal and headed for the dock.  It was dead low tide and there wasn't enough water next to the dock for Endless Summer to float.  Susie was on the bow and I pivoted the boat in the middle of the shallow canal where we had about 5 feet of water.  By ramming the bow toward the dock several times we were able to get Susie and a line ashore.  We tied a spare anchor line to the stern and pulled Endless Summer slowly to along side the dock.  We finalized the docking process by tying bow and stern lines to poles that were away from the dock.  Endless Summer could now float between the dock and the pilings without being bashed against the dock.  It was good that we did that because passing yachts send big waves into the canal that would have crashed her against the dock.  We were firmly attached at our final destination for this leg of the adventure.  Now we will visit our parents and families in south Florida and the Keys during Thanksgiving and Christmas.  This leg of the adventure has been successfully completed.

Not Underway
December 28, 1996 - Saturday
Started diesel at 1:00 pm, meter reading 215.2
Stopped diesel at 2:00 pm, meter reading 216.2
Added approx. 6 gal diesel fuel
Endless Summer is still tied up behind the home of  Stan and Marilyn Clarke in Deerfield Beach, FL.
Susie and I started preparations for the next leg of our trip - Deerfield Beach to Marathon, on Vaca Key.  Susie cleaned and organized below.  I added approximately 6 gal of diesel fuel to top off Endless Summer's fuel tank.  I also got in the water and scrubbed the waterline.  We ran the diesel for one hour because it hadn't been run since our arrival - and to charge the batteries a little.  We bought a Garmin 45XL GPS at the Marathon, FL West Marine Store.
 

Underway - Continuation of ICW Trip South
January 1, 1997 - January 4, 1997

Underway Day 36 - January 1, 1997 - Wednesday
Started diesel at 7:25 am, 216.2 hrs. (low tide - aground at the dock)
Left dock behind Clark's House, Deerfield Beach FL (MM 1051.0) at 9:00 am
Anchored off Miami Beach, North side of Venetian Causeway, East end (MM 1188.6) at 5:00 pm
Diesel meter reading 225.3 hrs.
Totals: 39.6 miles,  8 hours, approx. 5 mph average
No Money Spent
We planned to leave the dock early and anchor south of Biscayne Bay, south of Miami.  We had to wait for the help of an incoming tide to get away from the dock.  We towed the dinghy, (without the outboard mounted on it) all the way.  It was New Years day and we thought there would not be many people on the water.  That was true for a while.  The canals all the way from north of Boca Raton to Miami are narrow  and lined with concrete sea walls.  Any boat wake deflects off each sea and wall bounces back.  When a boat passes, you are hit with his wake from both sides until the wakes die a natural death.  The waterways are very sloppy and choppy.  We knew we had 19 bridges in our southbound path.  We passed through each of them in stride, and only had a few short waits.  The waterways are lined with magnificent homes, condos, and other high rise concrete monstrosities.  Passing Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale was exciting.  We could have gone out there and taken the outside route, be we thought it would be a good experience to do the ICW all the way to the Florida Keys.   Due to our two hour delay getting out of the slip, we decided not to go all the way to southern Biscayne Bay.  We anchored at the east end of a waterway that paralleled the Venetian Causeway's north side.  It was a two mile run off the ICW.  It was a very nice anchorage, and several other boats that looked like semi-permanent fixtures were there too.  Since we stopped before our planned anchorage we were one bridge short of our 19 bridge goal for January 1st.  The last bridge we would had gone through was the Venetian Causeway West Bridge.  It had restricted hours from 7-9 am the next morning, so we would have to make a 7:30 am opening or wait until 8:00 am.

Underway Day 37 - January 2, 1997 - Thursday
Started the Diesel at 7:00 am - diesel meter at 225.3
Left Venetian Causeway anchorage at 7:10 am (MM 188.6 +2)
Anchored in Blackwater Sound, Key Largo, FL at 3:30 pm (MM1137.0) Diesel meter reading 233.8
Totals:  48.4 miles, 8 hours and 20 minutes, approx. 5.8 mph avg. speed
Bought Ice and diesel fuel at the Italian Fisherman Marina
Added approx. 7 gallons of diesel fuel.
As we left the Venetian Causeway anchorage we thought we could not make the 2 mile transit to the bridge in time for the 7:30 opening - but we did.  Susie called the bridge tender and told him we were on the way, but he could not see us because we were around the bend.  He opened the bridge as soon as he saw us, and we passed through without slowing.  We noticed two other anchorages that might have been better for us.  One is at the Miami Marine Stadium at about MM 1093 and off Hurricane Harbor at about MM 1095.  We started using the GPS for navigation at the Rickenbacker Causeway bridge.  It worked flawlessly.  Since the ICW markers are too far away to see, the GPS became a vital tool.  The charts provide courses on the longer legs, but the GPS kept us constantly aware of our course, and the path to the next marker.  All the hours of computing and entering waypoints and routes really paid off.  We had deep water all the way, but I had to learn how to live with depth gauge readings of less than 10 feet.  We had no problems reading or transiting the numerous cuts.  They are well marked and usually deeper than the channels they connect.  We anchored in Blackwater Sound, Key Largo Sound.  It is a popular resort area and we shared the anchorage with about 10 other boats.  The anchorage was beautiful, deep and huge.  We put the outboard on the dinghy and went to the Italian Fisherman Restaurant and Marina to buy ice and to call Susie's sister, on Long Key, with our ETA.  After that we put the outboard back on it's rail and I donned snorkel gear and scrubbed the water line.
 

Underway Day 38 - January 3, 1997 - Friday
Started diesel at 7:05 am, meter at 233.8 hrs.
Left Blackwater Sound at 7:15 am (MM 1137.0)
Anchored off Pat and Tom Gunn's home (Susie's Sister's house) Long Key, FL (MM 1174.8) at 1:45 pm
Diesel meter reading 240.4 hrs.
Added about 4 gallons of diesel fuel
Totals:   37.8 miles, 5 hours 30 minutes, approx. 6.9 mph average
No Money Spent
This was the most shallow part of the entire trip and I prepared for it by worrying.  The controlled depth on this stretch of the ICW is 5 feet, but the chart showed a few places where the depth was only 4 feet right on the magenta line.  We draw about 4' 10 so there was little room for error.  We tried to figure out the tides, but gave up.  The reported tides are for Miami Harbor and Key West.  We didn't know what the offsets were or exactly where we were.  We weighed anchor and took our chances.   We had a beautiful trip and never bumped even once.  The water was so clear in some spots that we could see the bottom as if it was only a few inches deep.  Welcome to tropical waters.  The cuts along this route are through mangrove swamps, and they are beautiful.  Again the GPS pulled us through, guiding us to each waypoint along the way.  We noticed lots of cruising sailboats anchored in Tarpon Bay (MM 1139) and Buttonwood Sound (MM 1142).  Tarpon Basin is very protected.  We Anchored off Pat and Tom Gunn's dock.  There was sufficient water, but a current exists at that part of the Key.  It was something to worry about because dragging anchor could put us aground or send us toward one of the many Keys bridges.  We had dinner with Pat and Tom and returned to Endless Summer for the night.

Underway Day 39 - January 4, 1997 - Saturday
Started diesel at 10:30 am, meter at 240.4 hrs.
Left Long Key Anchorage at 10:35 am (MM 1174.8)
Docked at Hurricane Resort and Marina Slip #1 Vaca Key, Marathon, FL (MM1192.0+2) at 2:00 pm
Diesel meter reading 243.9 hrs.
Totals: 19.2 miles, 3 hours 25 minutes, approx. 5.5 mph average
No Money Spent
We tried to time leaving Long Key to arrive at our marina on an incoming tide.  Again we couldn't find out exactly what the tides were, so we made our best guess and left.  It was a beautiful trip.  There was a nice breeze on our starboard beam.  We motor sailed with the genoa fully unfurled and made between 6.8 and 7.2 mph all the way.  We had good water all the way.  The entrance to the marina is where we thought we might have a water depth problem.  We were told it was about 5 feet deep at low tide.  That's fine, but what does about mean?  We never saw less that 7-8 feet.  The water inside the marina is between 12-14 feet deep.  We tied up without incident and began setting up for an extended stay.  We finally made it.  A 1192 mile trip, 39 days on the ICW.  We had no problems with the boat, running aground or catching crab or lobster traps.  God was with us all the way.  Life is good!

This is the last underway log entry for the October 22, 1996 - January 4, 1997
Cruise of Endless Summer from Norfolk, Virginia to Marathon, Florida

Not The End - Just Another Beginning!
 

The Log of Endless Summer
by Roger and Susie Mummah